Goodbye Greece, Hello Turkey

Datca

On 26^th September we moored on the town quay at Datca, which sits on the Turkish mainland opposite the Greek island of Simi. We like Datca, it’s a typical Turkish holiday resort with a good beach and pretty waterfront cafes and restaurants on either side of a peninsular. We were here 10 years ago to visit our friends Gill and Nursal, who live in the small village of Hirzirsah, a few kilometres out of the town. We were looking forward to seeing them again this year, but when we arrived we discovered they were back in England visiting family. Heh ho, maybe we’ll catch them on the way back next year.

The full Turkish treatment at the barber's

Cliff was in urgent need of a haircut, so a visit to the barber was a must before we left. Cliff suggested I came with him, and although I felt a bit out of place sitting in such an overtly male establishment, it was certainly entertaining. The barber was very welcoming and even popped to the café next door to order me a glass of chai (Turkish tea) to drink while I waited. At first it all seemed relatively normal, as Cliff’s hair, beard and moustache were expertly trimmed and he was given a wash, blow dry and head and neck massage. But then I noticed the barber heating some wax... he spread this over Cliff’s cheeks and nose then dipped cotton buds in the wax and popped one in each ear! Once it had cooled, the wax was ripped off, but there were still a few hairs to deal with. Next the barber lit a taper and wafted the flame over Cliff’s face and ears until the remaining hair was literally singed away. (Watching this made me wince, but Cliff says none of it was particularly painful). Then the barber produced a small, circular, pointed electric razor and gently pushed it into each of Cliff’s nostrils to remove the excess nostril hair. Finally, Cliff was given a liberal dowsing of cologne, and walked out looking and smelling like a real Turkish gentleman!

Stray cats and dogs are a fact of life in both Greece and Turkey, and in Datca we were befriended by a stray tabby kitten who tried to climb on to the boat. Much as we love cats, we aren’t keen on the fleas they bring with them, so we shooed the kitten away. Then, at five the next morning I was woken by a loud meowing. “I think the cat’s on the boat” I said to Cliff. “Impossible” he replied, “we’re six foot off the quay with the plank up, anyway, there’s no way it can get in.” The meowing continued so I got up… and discovered the kitten happily curled up in our saloon on the chart table cushion! She must have boarded another boat and jumped across, then squeezed down below through a narrow opening in our hatch. Needless to say, she was swiftly (but gently) evicted.

The beautiful Gulf of Hisaronu

After leaving Datca we spent a few days cruising the beautiful, sheltered Gulf of Hisaronu. At the southern end of the Gulf the hills are bare and red with wonderful rock formations, and at the north end they are rich and green, covered in pine trees. For our first night we sailed north and anchored under pine covered slopes in the secluded bay of Kuyulu Buku, where the only sounds were the hooting of the owls. Over the next two days  we slowly worked our way south again.

The picture-postcard town of Simi

The Greek island of Simi sits opposite the southern end of the Gulf and we couldn’t resist a quick peek at the main town, although officially we couldn’t land without ‘checking in’ to Greece again. We were pleased we made the detour, it’s a picturesque spot and we are looking forward to spending a night or two there on our way back north next year.

Stunning views from the citadel of Loryma

Eventually we sailed south out of the Gulf and round the corner into the stunning bay of Bozuk Buku, under the remains of the ancient citadel of Loryma. We tied up to the rickety restaurant jetty, then climbed up the hill to the citadel and walked along its walls, which gave us wonderful views towards Rhodes on one side and down into the bay on the other.

The next morning it was decision time. Should we turn left and head down towards Marmaris, or go straight out towards Gocek and Fethiye? The weather decided for us: thunderstorms and strong winds were forecast for Marmaris, so we set our course for the nine hour sail down to Gocek, where we were promised light winds and sunshine.