Andros



Batsi harbour on Andros

From Evia we headed back to the Cyclades. Our first stop was Vouraki on the island of Kea. It’s a small, relatively undeveloped island with some lovely sandy beaches and unspoilt countryside, but it’s also the nearest Cycladean island to Athens and Vouraki has become a favourite spot for Athenian sailors.

We arrived on a Thursday when the port was relatively quiet, but by Friday evening the place was buzzing and we were squeezed between two super-yachts which were both belching smelly fumes from their generators.  I had just started a chesty cold, and this was the last thing I needed. Then the yacht next to us decided it was party night and set up a disco on deck which was so loud that the restaurant opposite came over to complain. They turned the music down, but the partying continued all night, and the next morning we decided it was time for us to move on to our next stop, the island of Andros.

Early evening in Batsi on Andros

A cruising couple we met on Evia had told us that the small resort of Batsi on Andros was one of their favourite places, and as we sailed into the bay, we could see why. The picturesque village still boasts some of the mansions built in the 19^th century when Andros was home to wealthy shipping magnates. The village sits on the hill around the harbour, and there are a series of sandy beaches running along the bay. We quickly found a mooring in the harbour and were given a warm welcome by Ioannis, the harbour master.  As we explored the village we were struck by how friendly and helpful the locals were – this was more like the ‘old’ Greece we remembered.

Exploring the village paths

Unfortunately after a day or so my ‘cold’ developed into a full blown chest infection and we decided to stay in Batsi until I felt better. Strong southerly winds were forecast and Ioannis came to tell us that our current mooring wasn’t safe as waves would break over the wall and on to the boat.  “But don’t worry, I have a special place for you” he said, and he pointed to a wonderfully sheltered spot tucked right inside the fishing harbour.  

The local 'swimming pool'

We soon discovered that our new mooring was next to a corner of the harbour that the local children had adopted as their ‘swimming pool’. They were very friendly and they kept us entertained as they competed to see who could jump the furthest into the harbour.



The chapel of the 'Virgin Mary of the Sea' at Chora

 

When I began to feel better we hired a car for a day to explore the island and visit the capital, Chora. This was a lovely old town built on a rocky headland. We spent an enjoyable morning exploring its winding streets and then walked down to the old wharf to visit the chapel of Panagia Thalassimi which is dedicated to the Virgin of the Sea, who protects sailors. Hopefully she will keep her eye on us as we continue on our travels.