Vathi and Messolonghi

Vathi on Ithaca

 

We left Lefkas on 30^th April to start our journey towards the Aegean. We had a perfect two hour downwind sail in the sunshine to one of our favourite spots, Spartahori on the island of Meganisi, where we had an excellent evening in the beachside taverna.

The next day the wind refused to appear so we had to motor down to Vathi on the pretty, pine clad island of Ithaca. As we slowed and got ready to moor in the harbour the engine cut out. We started it up and it was fine, but as soon as we slowed it stopped again. We managed to keep it going long enough to moor alongside then Cliff spent a frustrating hour checking everything in the engine but couldn’t find the problem.

We had hoped to make the most of some good westerly winds to cross from Ithaca to the Gulf of Patras the next day, but instead we had to wait around for an engineer, who took two hours to find the fault (a tiny air leak in the fuel pipe) and another hour to replace it. We then had to hand over a very large wad of euros, not a good start to the season!

The motor had a good test the next day as the wind was on the nose for most of the 7 hour crossing to Messolonghi. As we approached the harbour black clouds gathered and we just managed to finish tying up before the heavens opened and it poured with rain.

Statue of Byron in Messolonghi

 

Messolonghi is a peaceful spot, set on a flat plain surrounded by shallow lagoons and marshes and backed by magnificent mountains. It is here that Lord Byron died in 1824. When he arrived at the town he was made commander in chief of an army that was fighting the Ottomans. He died of fever before he could lead the army into battle but still became a Greek national hero, and we visited the statue dedicated to him in the local park.

Fisherman's house

We spent a couple of lazy days in Messolonghi while we waited for some strong winds and storms to blow through. We had a great cycle ride along a causeway between the lagoons where the local fishermen live in houses on stilts and trawl the shallow waters in oriental-looking boats. The area is full of wildlife and we spotted turtles, egrets, pelicans and even flamingos.

Fishing boats on the lagoon


 



Flamingos on the lagoon