Argostoli and frisky turtles

 

The lake at Argostoli


10^th May We are now moored in the harbour of Argostoli on the island of Cephalonia. We had an easy, four day sail down through the Gulfs of Corinth and Patras, but with little wind we had to resort to the motor at times.  We were entertained by pods of dolphins who came to play in our bow wave and we spotted several turtles feeding on the plentiful supply of jellyfish. Just as well it’s still too cool to swim!

11^th May The wind got up today and the flotilla boat next to us began to drag on its anchor and drifted onto us.  There was no-one on the boat, but we finally persuaded another crew from the flotilla to go on board and haul in the anchor before Sandpiper was damaged. When one of the boats on the other side of us also started dragging we decided it was time to move, so we’ve motored across to the abandoned marina on the far side of the harbour which offers much better protection from the wind.



Sandpiper in the marina at Argostoli

12^th May The marina is very peaceful. It’s on the opposite side of the bay to the town and is backed by green hills. It was built some years back with grants from the EU, but was abandoned when it was time to pay back the loans! There’s no water or electricity, but the concrete pontoons are sturdy and stop most of the surge when the wind whips down through the bay. It's home to several ‘ghost’ boats that have been impounded by the police for drug smuggling then simply left to rot. There are also a few cruisers here who, like us, are making the most of a free mooring.  Beyond the marina the space left for offices and a car park has now been reclaimed by nature and provides a grazing ground for the local sheep.

Sheep grazing by the marina

13^th May Our walk into town today took us across the long bridge that separates an inland lake from the sea.  We knew this was a popular spot for turtles and as we scanned the water we spotted what looked like a big, oddly shaped turtle thrashing about in the water. After a moment we realised there were actually two turtles and they were mating! We’ve been told these loggerhead turtles come to the quiet waters of lake each year to mate. Later the females will go to the beaches beyond the town to lay their eggs.


The turtles in action

Our plan is to sail from here straight to Sicily. It's a two day sail heading due west, but guess where the wind is coming from for the next few days? The west. So it looks as though we will be spending a bit more time in Argostoli.



Donna catching up with the washing

15^th May We are still in Argostoli waiting for the weather to improve. Waiting can be tedious, but we are lucky to have a lovely couple in the boat next door who have kept up sane.  Donna and Ricky arrived after a pretty gruelling sail down from Sicily, so they are taking some time out before heading up through the islands.

19^th May We hired a car today to drive around the island. The weather was mixed, with heavy clouds threatening rain, but the island is just as beautiful as we remembered.


The pretty port of Assos

23rd May This morning we noticed a new boat moored in the bay and a quick check with the binoculars confirmed it is Sulaire, home to Charlie and Alison who spent the winter with us in Cartagena three years ago. Needless to say, this called for a few drinks in the bar to catch up with all the news. They too are planning to cross to Sicily once the wind has moved round.




It was great to see Charlie an Alison again

26^th May The wind has finally turned, so we will be heading towards Sicily tomorrow. We can’t wait to be out at sea again!

 

NIght time intruders at Korfos

Korfos

3^nd May 2016 We have sailed to Korfos, which is just round the headland from our next destination:  the Corinth Canal. But after a night in the port we hear that gale force winds are forecast for the canal area over the next two days, so we decide to head back to Epidaurus and explore inland.  As we turn the corner out of the bay the wind is on the nose and the horizon disappears into a wall of white.  Then the wind speed suddenly accelerates from 10 to 40 knots, the rain pelts down and the sea begins to crash over the bows.  We don’t fancy the idea of this for another two hours, so we turn back again and tie up on the pontoon Korfos.

The 'pirate' fishing boats

 

4^th May I am woken at 2am by the sound of footsteps on the deck. I climb up the companionway steps and find two Greek men busy undoing our lines! I shout at them to stop, but all they can say is ‘fish’! I then notice that the small motor launch that was moored behind us has been tied alongside our boat. My shouts of ‘No!’ wake Cliff who joins me in trying to evict the men. Eventually Eric, a Norwegian from another boat on the pontoon, arrives along with Takis, the Greek owner of the motor launch. Much shouting ensues in Greek, and Eric explains that the intruders are fishermen from the island of Salamis near Athens, who want to rearrange the boats on the pontoon to make room for their two large fishing boats so they can offload their catch. Eventually we reluctantly agree to move. We later hear that these fishermen are not welcome in Korfos as the pontoon was built for leisure sailors who provide essential income for the many restaurants.

Liz at Palamidi Fort

Liz would like to visit Nafplion, so in the morning we take a cab across to this lovely old town, first stopping at Palamidi Fort that sits high above Nafplion and offers stunning views of the town and the Argolic Gulf.  Then we drive down to the port and wander through the narrow streets admiring the Venetian architecture which has survived from the 14^th Century.

Nafplion town

5^th May At 6am we are woken by footsteps on deck again! The fishermen are busy tying Takis’ boat alongside ours and insist that we should move back. We are planning to leave this morning and so we stand firm – we will move forward so that they can berth behind us, but we cannot have the motorboat tied alongside us. At 10am Takis appears with the police. The fishermen took his boat off the pontoon and anchored it out in the bay - he is furious! The police interview Cliff to confirm what happened and then talk sternly to the fishermen. They are still shouting at each other as we head out of the port towards the Corinth Canal.

Liz helming Sandpiper through the Corinth Canal

Our transit through the canal goes smoothly and Liz gets a chance to take the helm. We are soon tied up on the port at Corinth where we are going for a farewell meal with Liz before she leaves to take her flight to the UK tomorrow.

6^th May 2016 We were up early this morning to wave goodbye to Liz as she took a taxi to the Metro station to go to Athens.  Later we discovered that Liz arrived at the station to find the Metro is on strike! Luckily her taxi hadn’t left, so she jumped back in and headed for the bus station, where she finally found a seat on a bus to Athens.